A tradition in Haute Couture, the bridal world generally makes an entrance at the closing of the show, but for the FW 2019-20 season, there are plenty of designs that are ideal for the big day. Let’s discover some of them!
As usual, the first one in the parade is Maison Schiaparelli, led by new designer Daniel Roseberry. A magnificent and structured collection with trains, crystal tassels, tops with rhinestones and tulip skirts. Constructions with high volumes of pleated ruffles that recreate the clouds. A trend also followed by Chanel, where Virginia Viard, heir of Karl Lagerfeld, presents a timeless collection with innovative touches: from the iconic collarless jackets for tweed suits to the austere velvet dresses to the softness of chiffon. And looking into the future is Iris Van Herpen, wrapping her outfits in tubular structures with geometric constructions!
Schiaparelli / Chanel / Iris Van Herpen
King Giorgio add to his Armani Prive a series of sweet pastels, dancing crinoline skirts covered in sparkling stones, dresses with different layers of organza, tulle and silk, all overlapping to create a sense of fluidity.
Lace, fringes, feathers and wild layers of pleated silk skilfully combined for Givenchy and a proposal of mythical, fairy-tale bird women. Feathers are also present in the cocktail dresses presented by Ralph & Russo, celebrating the Art Deco movement with a series of opalescent fan-shaped patterns and strings of pearls!
Armani Privé / Givency / Ralph & Russo
And the essential ‘obsessions’ of Giambattista Valli: thousands of layers of tulle, exuberant volumes, ruffles, drapes that challenge gravity but with absolute lightness, for a collection intended to show the workmanship with the materials and the expertise of the ateliers.
Naturally ethereal and delicate, “Alchemy of Lightness” by Luisa Beccaria; a galaxy of silk tulle, thin organza and finely embroidered mousseline that provides airiness and movement to gowns with contemporary lines. The collection by Rahul Mishra is also the archetype of ‘light couture’ because of the special fabric treatments to remove heaviness from the most rigid structures.
Luisa Beccaria (credit: @luisabeccaria) / Giambattista Valli / Rahul Mishra
Antonio Grimaldi introduces a femme fatale with a Hollywood charm with long, single-shoulder gowns with an asymmetrical cut in cady crepe, one of the great classics of the Maison. Bustier shirt-dresses and theatrical hoods for Alexis Mabille; XXL bows or clouds of organza, and then lace, always and invariably lace, generously used and proposed as leggings to wear underneath the skirts.
And while Christian Dior shows a long series of black dresses interrupted only by the metallic inlays of two silver models and a couple of ball gowns, Valentino‘s collection is a galaxy of hyper-saturated colours, often in surprising combinations, inspired by the botanical gardens and including ‘folk’ elements such as ornamental hats and wool fringes!
Antonio Grimaldi / Christian Dior / Valentino
By Elisa Nascimbene to Valmont Barcelona Bridal Fashion Week