An atmosphere of freedom can be experienced at the men’s spring-summer 2022, shows presented in London, Milan and Paris, through a mixed formula that includes both physical and digital events.
Designers are interested in many topics: from eco-sustainability to genderless fashion, from the desire for a new kind of freedom to the implementation of humanitarian ideologies (with a more responsible production chain) or the support of young talents.
Bethany Williams, the socially-engaged designer who opened London Fashion Week, uses mostly recycled prison garments for her collections. Meanwhile, Diesel’s new creative director Glenn Martens showed a genderless collection, while in Milan, the third edition of Designers for the Planet focused on the sustainable projects of up-and-coming designers.
Louis Vuitton / Rick Owens / Tokio James
We feel a renewed desire for open spaces, for the sea, for greenery, for nature, for a more relaxed and serene life, which is expressed in the new collections by the thinning of the boundaries between formal and informal, aesthetic codes that mix and fuse until they become dissolved to define a new style.
In this way, jackets are decorated in a deconstructed way and the lines of the trousers are slightly softened.
Lanvin / Hermès / Brioni / Brunello Cucinelli
Kiton / OAMC / Rick Owens / Dries Van Noten
A sense of freedom permeates the entire outfit: shirts and blouses take the place of jackets, Bermuda shorts take the place of trousers and everything sits fluidly on the body, without restriction or rigidity.
Giorgio Armani / Kiton / Fendi / Prada
Ermenegildo Zegna / Giorgio Armani / Issey Miyake / Magliano
The ideas also come from the world of sportswear, for a leisure fashion with comfort clothing that does not compromise on refinement.
Jordan Luca / Tod’s / Jordan Luca / Fendi
The desire for lightness is manifested in the subtraction and inspires designers to eliminate all ornamentation, creating weightless pieces: double-breasted jackets, suits and ensembles in light fabrics revisited in a fresh and casual way, with precise tailoring for a balanced and essential style.
Giorgio Armani / Brunello Cucinelli / Eleventy / Dolce & Gabbana / Brunello Cucinelli
And the desire to have fun again is expressed in the cheerfulness of the bright, vitamin-packed colours of the colour block outfits that make us dream and hope for a quick return to normality.
Dolce & Gabbana / Dior Men / Jil Sander / Etro
Paul Smith / Louis Vuitton
Article written by @elisanascimbene